One Day Project

My face vise stunk.

I made it out of scrap wood left over from the benchtop. The wood itself is soft, I drilled the holes sloppily, and it's a little thin. All of these factors led to a really flexy vise with a lot of slop.

Along with the walnut and maple that I used for the bookcase, I also picked up a grab bag of scrap cutoffs from Peachtree Lumber. One of the real gems in it was this:

It's a 2" thick piece of what I'm quite sure is tulip poplar. It was really cupped, but I handplaned it down nice and flat. Poplar is a pretty soft wood which should make it nice for holding smaller, delicate pieces. I ripped it down the middle into two pieces.

The sloppy drilling on the original vise jaw was the result of the vise not coming with a template to help layout exactly where the holes go. I sort of eyeballed it. I thought of a better solution this time:

I took the vise apart and used the jaw itself as the template. The metal piece at the bottom of the picture is where all the rods end, so I just used that to space all my holes perfectly.

Now that's a vise!

Here's a closeup of the beautiful grain of the poplar:

I like it. It works better too.

I'm probably going to do a little surgery on the actual bench itself to make it even a little more rigid, but that will be another day.

In the last post I mentioned my affinity for Bosch tools. Well, apparently someone at Bosch is paying attention because immediately a free Bosch plunge-cut blade for my oscillating tool showed up in the mail. I'm not kidding.

Now, this might have something to do with an Internet special promotion I signed up for a while ago...but maybe the tool industry has recognized the influence I wield with this blog and is engaging in a little *wink**wink**nod**nod* quid pro quo.

If that is the case, let me just take this space to express how much I continue to enjoy Bosch power tools...and Lie-Nielsen hand tools...and Lee Valley...and Spax screws...and Gramercy saws...and I've never used them but I hear Festool power tools are really nice. Also, a lot of the wood that God makes is really awesome. All my readers should go buy as much of all these things as possible.

I think this could be the beginning of a beautiful relationship.

The Crappywood Challenge

I'm on a mission.

Rid the house of particleboard

My wife has a lot of books.  

These books need homes.

Sagging particleboard shelves are unacceptable.

Off to the wood dealer I go.

This time I wanted to check out Peachtree Lumber up in Kennesaw. They had an enormous inventory of hardwoods including a "bargain bin." The bargain bin was actually a large area with lower grade hardwood to be had for a lower price. I walked out with I bunch of walnut for $2.54/bd ft. and "paint-grade" maple for $1.50/bd ft. 

Have a look:

The walnut is beautiful, wild-grained wood; but that's part of why it's so cheap. That crazy-grained, flat-sawn wood fights you every step of the way when you are working it...particularly if you are a hand-tool guy.  Power tools can usually blow through irregularities but hand tools have issues at times...we'll get to that. 

The white maple was to be the shelves and the walnut was to be the casework. I decided to knock the shelves out first and build the case around them. This runs counter to a strategy that I'm trying to employ of building from the outside in.  In this case I was material-limited so I had to plan very carefully around the limiting dimensions. I knew I had to have 5 shelves for this piece, so a defining dimension of the bookcase was however much I could get from the wood I had. Obviously the planks I bought were a little narrow for shelves, so that meant a long-grain butt joint...you know where this was going: tongue and groove.

Done...

...and done.

Note the tiger figuring on some of this wood:

Very nice, but a pain to work with. Essentially the grain does a little shimmy on each stripe and that makes getting a smooth surface difficult with handplanes.

But that was nothing compared to the walnut:

At least in the above specimen, the grain direction is decisive: first it's one way, then it's the other. On other pieces it was back and forth and back and forth. No fun: tear-out all over the place. But I got it smooth eventually by edge planing short sections in one direction and then hitting it from the other side.

So the stock prep got done...time for construction. It's a very simple design: the case will be dovetailed together, shelves fit into dados, and a nice face frame attached via loose tenon joinery. Simple stuff.

DTs:

The size of these pieces did present some problems to which I was unaccustomed. For example, pin layout had to be done sideways and without a vise...

...and pin cutting had to be done with me on top of the workbench:

But all's well that ends well.

Now time to fit the shelves. Here you can see the length of the shelf relative to the casework:

...not quite halfway overlapped: all good.

Here's how to rout dados for shelves: clamp the two side pieces together, clamp a straightedge normal to them, rout your dados:

I'm going to use this little space here to proclaim how much I love Bosch tools. They're such a pleasure to use. No funky styling either...just function...so nice.

My largest router bit is 3/4", the shelves are a little more.

Dangit

Not a big deal though. I could've power-planed all the shelves down to .748" but that would've been really loud; and since good music was on the radio at the time I took another course:

Oh, skew block plane, I do adore thee.

Fast forward to four shelves later: time to start thinking about the face frame. More long-grain butt joints. I decided to employ the old floating tongue technique that has gotten me into so much trouble in the past. What can I say? It's bound to work some day. Grooves plowed:

Uh-oh, that's no good:

Looks like a groove is exiting and will be visible. That's not really good form. Actually I anticipated this and considered busting out a mitered dovetail joint, but that's a joint that I need to practice a bit more before executing on a live piece. So I'll deal with it. It's not that big a deal:

...and done:

At this point the case was just three pieces of wood joined together with two joints: two sides and a top. I needed a brace on the bottom. My idea was to just attach a brace with exposed through dovetails flush with a bottom shelf. Here is one of the receiving tail sockets in the face frame:

Anyone see a potential problem? Yeah, because these sockets are oriented along the grain instead of in end grain, they are super delicate. Once everything is assembled it will be strong, but getting it there could be disastrous. And it was.

I tried a nice slow, steady assemblage with clamps slowly sliding the tails into place:

And it snapped that middle tail right off. Darn. So I screwed-and-glued it back in place.

All good:

Then I did the other side, this time with a preemptive screw in the middle tail.

That's no good.

That's even worse.

Time for emergency patchwork and a beer:

I used my dovetail layout guide to define the shape of the bookcase feet. This angle jives nicely with the nearby patched up dovetails. Notice how the right side of the guide is aligned with the edge of the wood: this is a trick I use all the time in layout. Doing this facilitates easily repeatable spacing around the rest of the piece.

Here's the exact same spacing repeated on the brace:

A little satin wax to bring out the depth of the grain...

Now we're getting somewhere!

I should do a commercial for Minwax:



Brief: Part II

When last I left, we were at this stage:

The frame was assembled on the briefcase, but the panel edges extended all around the frame and needed to be trimmed. 

Here was a little angle I chipped to prevent blowing out the end grain. 

I had a big long explanation typed up to explain what is going on here and what blow out is and the subtleties involved, but honestly it was getting way too wording and I was doing a poor job explaining. So I deleted it. Basically I need to take more pictures and devote another posting to it. 

Whoops! Trimmed a little too deep...

But that's why smoothing planes were invented.

Now it was time to cut the sucker open. The first task is to strike a line all around the box where the cut will be. This is easily done with a marking gauge. Note where the line falls on the dovetail and how the irregular spacing of the joint makes sense now.

My plan was to start each cut in the corners with the dovetail saw and then finish them off with the big (and new to me) sash saw. Here is an initial corner cut:

Remember, on Western saws, the cut is on the push stroke; so here I'm cutting to the right. I've stopped the cut right before the saw enters the tail board. I've done this so that I'm not cutting "uphill" or against the grain. If this cut was to proceed down into the tail board, the saw teeth would be tearing out the grain and leaving a ragged cut instead of shaving the wood and leaving a smooth cut as it has in the pin board.

Moving up to a bigger saw (with a new handle by Yours Truly)...

...and just trying to connect those corners with as straight a line as possible:

This is actually pretty difficult.

Soon one cut...

 ...leads to another:

and another and another and then:

Taa-daa!

Then I just added SOSS hinges...

...and stained it:

Actually I beveled some edges and then I stained it. 

So that's where things sit now. I still need handle and catch hardware but that stuff is easy to install. I'm already on the next project actually...you can see a sneak peek in the background of the last picture there. Yeah, that's some wild grain going on up there and it's really tough to work with.

Stay tuned.